A Self‑Drive Adventure Through Botswana, the Caprivi & Victoria Falls

At the end of July, myself and a group of 12 friends set off on a classic overland adventure: a loop from Pretoria up through Botswana, across the Caprivi Strip and into Zimbabwe to visit Victoria Falls, before turning back via the Makgadikgadi Pans. It was a trip filled with wide‑open roads, campfire stories, river sunsets and more than a few reminders that true wilderness still exists.

Day 1: Pretoria to Serowe

Pretoria to Serowe | approx. 530 km

We left Pretoria early, heading north toward Botswana and crossing the border at Stokpoort. Once formalities were done, the sense of adventure really kicked in: long open roads, changing landscapes and that special feeling of being “on the way” to somewhere wild.

Our first night was in Serowe at Serowe Hotel. It was the perfect soft landing after a big driving day: simple, comfortable and welcoming. Dinner was an unexpectedly good pizza, shared over maps and route discussions for the days ahead.

Day 2: Into Maun, Gateway to the Okavango

Serowe to Maun

From Serowe we continued to Maun, the lively gateway town to the Okavango Delta. We checked into Riley’s Hotel, the oldest hotel in Maun and full of character. My room was lovely and felt like a little oasis after the dusty road.

That evening we enjoyed sundowners by the pool, watching the sky turn orange and pink, followed by a perfectly cooked steak and an ice‑cold St Louis beer. Before leaving Maun, we stopped at the DWNP (Department of Wildlife and National Parks) office to pay our conservation fees for Moremi. It is a crucial step for anyone self‑driving into the parks.

 

Day 3: Into the Wild at Third Bridge, Moremi

Maun to Third Bridge Camp, Moremi Game Reserve

From Maun we headed into Moremi Game Reserve, bound for Third Bridge Camp. This is where the real wilderness experience begins.

The drive in is through thick Kalahari sand, so confidence behind the wheel and a reliable 4x4 are essential. Once inside Moremi, the modern world falls away quickly. There is no cell phone reception and, at night, no staff on site at the camp. It is just you, your group, the stars and the sounds of the bush.

That evening, while we were preparing our braai, the grid holding our food toppled over onto one of our group. It was a sharp reminder that small mishaps can happen even in magical places. Fortunately, we had a doctor travelling with us and a proper medical kit, which made all the difference. For self‑drive clients, this is one of my non‑negotiables: carry a good first‑aid kit and know where your nearest support is.

 

Day 4: Exploring Moremi from Third Bridge

We spent our next day at Third Bridge Camp and used it as a base for self‑drive game viewing. The Moremi landscape is a mosaic of floodplains, woodlands and waterways, and each loop reveals something different: elephant herds, antelope in the open plains, birds everywhere.

Evenings were all about the simple pleasures: a crackling campfire, a braai under the stars and the distant calls of hippo and hyena. With no screens and no signal, you reconnect very quickly with the rhythms of nature.

 

Days 5–7: Shakawe & The Delta Belle Houseboat

Leaving Moremi, we drove up to the panhandle area near Shakawe and our next base: the Delta Belle houseboat at Askiesbos.

Once on board, life slowed right down. All meals were served on the houseboat and we had a dedicated team of guides with a small motorboat for activities. Days were spent drifting along the water channels, fishing, birding and soaking up the tranquillity. Late afternoons became synonymous with sundowner cruises: that magical time when the water turns liquid gold and the sky puts on a show.

Over the 4th and 5th of August, the Delta Belle delivered superb service, warm hospitality and outstanding guiding. The birdlife along this stretch is incredible and the fishing enthusiasts in our group were in their element.

 

Day 8: Into Namibia at Divundu & Popa Falls

After disembarking the houseboat, we crossed into Namibia and made our way to Divundu, staying at Rainbow Lodge near Popa Falls.

The area is known for its riverine scenery and the gentle rapids of Popa Falls. It was a comfortable transition from boat life back to land, with the rhythmic sound of the river never far away.

 

Day 9: Along the Kwando River

From Divundu we continued to the Kwando River area and checked into Namushasha Camping to Go. This stop gave us that authentic “back‑to‑nature” camping feel, but with the convenience of facilities ready and waiting.

It is a peaceful part of the Caprivi, ideal for clients who want a quieter river experience, with opportunities for game viewing in the nearby parks and leisurely time along the water.

 

Day 10: Katima Mulilo & The Zambezi

Next, we drove on to Katima Mulilo and stayed at Zambezi Mubala Camp. This stretch of the trip felt like a string of river pearls: each stop along a different waterway, each lodge with its own personality but the same soothing soundtrack of flowing water and bird calls.

 

Day 11: Crossing to Ngoma & The Chobe River

From Katima we continued to Ngoma and checked into Chobe River Camp. The Chobe region is renowned for its elephant herds and riverfront game sightings, and you start to feel that heightened concentration of wildlife as you arrive.

That evening we joined a sundowner cruise on the Chobe River, watching elephants and hippos from the water as the sun dipped low. It is one of the most special ways to experience Chobe: the perspective from the river is completely different to a game drive.

 

Day 12: Deeper Into Chobe & On to Kasane

We spent another day at Chobe River Camp before heading to Kasane, where we stayed at Thebe River Safaris. Kasane acts as a busy hub for day trips, boat excursions and onward travel to Victoria Falls, and Thebe made an ideal base for a couple of nights.

 

Day 13: Kasane & Chobe Activities

With a full day based at Thebe River Safaris, there was time to explore more of the Chobe area. For clients, this is where you can mix and match activities: boat cruises, game drives into the park, photographic safaris or simply relaxing by the river.

 

Day 14: Day Trip to Victoria Falls

From Kasane we did a full day trip to Victoria Falls. Crossing into Zimbabwe and then walking the rainforest trails to the viewpoints is always a goosebump moment, no matter how many photos you have seen.

The sheer power and volume of water, the mist rising like smoke and the roar of the falls make this a bucket‑list experience. At the end of the day, we returned to Kasane tired, happy and still slightly damp from the spray.

 

Day 15: Makgadikgadi Pans & Elephant Sands

Leaving the Chobe area, we began the journey south via the Makgadikgadi region. Our stop for the night was Elephant Sands Bush Lodge.

This lodge is known for elephants that frequently wander close to camp, often visiting the waterholes nearby. It is a raw, exciting encounter with wildlife and perfectly rounds off the safari section of a trip like this.

 

Day 16: Nata to Francistown

On our final travelling day we drove from the Nata area to Francistown and stayed at Cresta Marang. After so many remote stops, this was a comfortable final overnight before continuing back to South Africa.

 

Who This Journey Is Perfect For

This route is ideal for:

• Confident self‑drivers with 4x4 experience. 
• Travellers who enjoy a mix of rustic camps, character lodges and simple hotels. 
• Anyone wanting to combine Botswana’s wilderness with the rivers of the Caprivi and an easy visit to Victoria Falls.

It is not a “luxury fly‑in” safari, but rather a rich, road‑based journey for people who love the sense of getting there under their own steam.

 

Final Thoughts

Over these sixteen days we crossed borders, camped in true wilderness, cruised quiet waterways, watched sunsets from riverboats and stood in front of one of the world’s greatest waterfalls. It was a reminder that southern Africa still offers incredible overland adventures for those prepared to take the road less travelled.

Get in touch with me to start planning your safari to Botswana, Namibia’s Caprivi and Victoria Falls.