Tigers, the Taj Mahal and India's Golden Triangle

Just arrived off of the overnight flight from London Heathrow and straight into Delhi’s mesmerising Old Town, we weaved our way through Delhi’s Spice Market, coughing and eyes streaming. ‘Wear a mask’ our guides had advised. One of a group of 15 Travel Counsellors, and experienced travellers all, we didn’t see ourselves being felled by a mere sprinkling of red chilli dust.  Within minutes, we had all donned our masks as we went deeper into the maze of Asia’s largest wholesale spice market.

We were in India to explore the colonial history of Delhi, the Rajput & Mughal dynasties of Rajasthan and the wildlife of majestic Ranthambore National Park, known for its thriving population of Royal Bengal Tigers.

At Qutub Minar, the oldest mosque complex in India and the first of several UNESCO World Heritage sites that we visited, we witnessed soaring stonework and intricate carvings which tell the story of Delhi’s many empires.

Following a lunch at the upscale and luxurious Le Meridien hotel, the haunt of local celebrities as well as the national cricket team (treated like gods here), we hopped onto traditional rickshaws for a tour of Old Delhi, guided by former street boys from the Salaam Baalak Trust. Taking  us through the forementioned Spice Market and past abandoned havelis, we finished for drinks at heritage Haveli Dharampura. From the rooftop bar over G&Ts, we could admire the locals perfecting their kite-flying skills in the sunset skies.

Six hours south of Delhi lies Ranthambore National Park, once a royal hunting ground and now a haven for Royal Bengal tigers. September’s lush post-monsoon greenery meant the big cats stayed hidden, although we sensed they were nearby. Sunrise safaris among lakes, ruins and forests were still magical. For the best chance of sightings, I advise visiting between October and April when the ‘Core’ areas of the park reopen to visitors.  Whether staying in intimate colonial-style lodge The Maharaja's Lodge, or at luxury tented camp SUJAN Sher Bagh, you can sense the presence of the British Raj.

From there we continued to Jaipur, UNESCO’S Pink City. In just 48 hours, we sampled lively bazaars, exquisite jewellery and textiles, and glimpsed the city’s rich artistic and scholarly traditions. At fascinating Jantar Mantar, our next UNESCO World Heritage Site dating from the 18^th century, we explored monumental astrological instruments including the world’s largest sun dial, which demonstrated the astronomical & cosmological knowledge of the time. Our overnight stay was at the heavenly Samode Haveli, an exquisite rabbit warren of a  heritage property right in the centre of the city, with unique suites over 200 years' old, featuring astonishing frescoes and mirror mosaics.

Our first sighting of the Taj Mahal was on a quiet evening walk through local villages just outside Agra.  Unexpectedly, walking through fields of maize, someone gasped and pointed – and there she was (the Taj Mahal is definitely a she), rising up at sunset with no other buildings to be seen.  This 400-year old mausoleum, built as an expression of profound love and devotion, truly marvels with her symmetry, her majesty and her sheer audacious, poetic magnificence. Our night in Agra was spent at Ekaa Villa & Kitchen, a boutique guesthouse which serves authentic, locally sourced, vegetarian regional cuisine and generational local home-cooking.

Following a dawn visit to see the Taj Mahal up close the next day, we left the city to head for the contrasting deep countryside of Chambal. Off the beaten path, at the gentle eco-lodge, Mela Kothi Chambal Safari Lodge, the focus was on sustainability and old-school service. We slowed down and tuned in to birdsong and rural rhythms. A visit to Holipura Heritage Village, with its 300-year-old havelis, most falling into disrepair, and atmospheric lanes, felt like stepping into a living museum, guided (as so often in India) by curious, friendly children.

Next stop was the Agra Express by rail back to New Delhi, where we explored “Lutyens’ Delhi” with its wide boulevards, grand bungalows and important monuments. Visiting the final residence of Mahatma Gandhi and the site of his assassination was a deeply moving way to end my time in the north. The final hotel of our tour, and my personal favourite, was the iconic Imperial Hotel. Art Deco in style, this is New Delhi’s Grande Dame, and it doesn’t disappoint.  It has a collection of over 5,500 original 17th- and 18th-century historical artworks and artefacts, and the best breakfast pastries that I have ever enjoyed!  This was old-school, 5* hospitality at its absolute finest. 

Planning Your Own Indian Journey

In one itinerary, India offered me:

• World Heritage monuments and iconic sights like the Taj Mahal
• Grassroots community projects and powerful human stories
• Wildlife and atmospheric safaris in Ranthambore
• Palaces, forts and exquisite craftsmanship in Jaipur
• Slow countryside stays and haunting heritage villages near Chambal

If this has sparked your curiosity, I would love to help you design your own tailor-made Indian adventure, whether that means more time in Jaipur’s bazaars, extra safaris, or more slow days in the countryside.

If you would like to explore this remarkable country, do get in touch with me for a friendly chat over some chai and we can start planning.