Highlights from Northern Italy, May - June 2017
First stop Venice, with family, and what a way to arrive…the Alilaguna from Marco Polo Airport gave us a wonderful introduction to the Venetian way of life and we were dropped minutes from St Mark’s Square where we were staying.
Our first full day was spent visiting the islands of Murano (where the famous glass is made), Burano (where lace-making is the speciality) and Torcello (where we had a delicious lunch at Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo). Each island has unique character and charm and the boat rides in between are also a stunning way to see different angles of Venice.
Of all the amazing sights, The Basilica, Doges Palace, Correr Museum, Ca Rezzonico, Rialto Bridge etc. without doubt some of the most magical moments were spent exploring the quieter canals, piazzas, churches and bridges and savouring the sights and sounds of Venetian life, with the magnificent backdrop of Italian history and culture.
A boat trip along the Grand Canal is a must, both by day and by night, and there’s a fabulous birds eye view from the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a department store near the Rialto Bridge.
En-route to Lake Garda, we had a great day in Padua, a beautiful city only half an hour from Venice, with incredible architecture, a prestigious university, cathedrals, park and piazzas. Driving east, through the Soave wine region we came to our next stop at Desenzano del Garda. Three days flew by, exploring the southern part of the lake (ferry day passes are available at the town harbours dotted along the lake shore). I especially loved Bardolino and Sirmione. The view at the top of Sirmione Castle is well worth the climb.
I then took a train to Arona, to meet up with friends at Lake Maggiore. Wow…Maggiore is an enchanting lake, which again, is best explored by boat. We stopped at the three little ‘Isolas’ or islands, and were mesmerised by walls of flowers, quaint shops and majestic buildings in the middle of this vast lake….Arona was a lovely place to stay, and we even had a swim in the lake…with swans gliding by!
A trip to Lake Como is a must. Though Como itself is big and busy, the centre of the old town is lovely and once on the lake it’s peaceful and impossibly picturesque. It has a different feel to the other lakes, being narrower, with steeper lush green sides and tucked away grand villas with immaculate gardens leading down to stone boathouses. Cernobbio was an interesting stop, as was Moltrasio with its cascading waterfall.
Next stop was Verona which I absolutely loved! Fantastic to stay very centrally in the old part of town, being close to the Arena, piazzas and markets, Castelvecchio, museums and churches. Verona comes alive at night and the evening atmosphere in the streets with buzzing bars, shops and restaurants is electric!
My last stop was in Florence by train, and a fabulous note to end on. Highlights for me were spending hours in the Accademia and Uffizi Galleries and wandering around the Boboli Gardens with its incredible views from the top, to the city one side, and Tuscan landscape the other. Oh and sampling delicious olives and truffle oil in the Food Halls. Walking back over the Ponte Vecchio late in the day, it’s fascinating to see the wooden casket like exteriors of the closed up shops, and the changing colour of the water beneath as the sun sets.
Italy, I will be back…for the sights (the Art, the architecture, the water, canals, lakes and fountains), for the sounds (a string quartet in St Mark’s Square, the beautiful Italian language and church bells ringing), the smells (of walls and roofs covered in fragrant jasmine, coffee percolating, and aromas from trattorias and osterias at dusk) and the tastes (a chilled aperitivo, prosecco, asparagus and porcini risotto and of course gelato at any time of day!)
Ciao, ritornerò!