Everyone knows Zanzibar is a very popular and affordable beach destination. To me, it always invoked a sense of mystery and adventure. Just say it: Zan-zi-bar. It sounds like a spice; like old & musty-smelling dark alleys and cool courtyards; like a place with palm trees and dhows with billowing sails.
And so I was overjoyed at an opportunity to visit Zanzibar, offered by World Leisure Holidays and 1Time Airlines, who departs early morning from OR Tambo. The seating is more comfortable than some long-haul carriers’ - with pre-purchased vouchers (the amount printed on your boarding pass) for breakfast, snacks and drinks on the 3.5-hour flight.
I knew that on arrival the humidity would be overwhelming, as always happens near the Equator, but no mental preparation helps your body adapt quickly! Fortunately my camera lens got over its initial fogging-over faster than me.
Once we had had our visas and suitcases (manually transported through a hole in a wall of the tiny and in-serious- need-of-TLC airport building) we were welcomed outside by a band of drummers and dancers who were sweating more than us... The ground handler Gallery Tours were standing by with ice-cold, fresh-smelling wet towels, bottled water and freshly prepared coconut-water - sipped straight from the coconut.
On this educational trip we visited Italian-owned Planhotels. After an hour’s drive our first stop was Dream of Zanzibar, the latest (5-Star) addition to their Zanzibar-portfolio, due for completion by July 2009. Located on the North East Coast, it has lots of palm trees on a broad white beach, a total of 8 restaurants and bars, a spa and various accommodation-options.
The well-established 3-Star Mapenzi Beach Club was the next stop. After the hotel inspection, I opted for a nap in my comfortable air-conditioned room while my colleagues went for a dip in the pool. Dinner was a relaxed affair with the local Serengeti and Kilimanjaro-beers.
(All Planhotels offer fully inclusive packages and I have been converted – what a pleasure not to worry about the cost of food and drinks, and to concentrate only on having the best time possible! Clients who recently returned from a budget Zanzibari-holiday commented on how small and expensive, the variety of food to choose from was. Proof once again that you get what you pay for.)
After breakfast the next morning we departed in the rain, which continued almost the entire morning - my hopes of capturing Stone Town on camera almost entirely thwarted. We enjoyed coffee with a view at the Africa House Hotel and lunch at the colonial Serena Inn which seemed surreal, but offered a welcome time to reflect on the mornings’ sights, sounds and smells. Stone Town is an intoxicating shock to the system.
After lunch we visited the impressive Beit-El-Ajaib (House of Wonders) and shopped for kikoys, wooden carvings, beaded leather sandals, silver jewellery, books and coffee in the maze of alleys; and then departed on a Spice Tour.
Driving on Zanzibar’s roads is very exciting – there appears to be no rules and lots of potholes. Overtaking means shaving past without slowing down too much to check for oncoming traffic, often resulting in 3 vehicles alongside each other on a 2-lane road. Apparently renting a motorbike is very popular amongst tourists, but I'll definitely steer clear!
Our next overnight stop was Neptune Pwani Hotel. I loved everything, from the romantic rooms with their big bathrooms, private patios and beautiful views; to the huge, inviting pools, pool bars and the delightful spa. Unfortunately our sensory indulgences only extended as far as a walk on the beach with tall traditionally-dressed Masai, and later on the fantastic food, cocktails and wine.
Our last Planhotel, La Gemma Dell’ Est lies on Zanzibar’s best coastline - the North West. This property lies spread out over several hectares of landscaped gardens. After a lavish lunch (of the best variety and quality I've ever had!) we had a whole afternoon on the powdery-white beach and in the balmy sea-water, as well as some more bartering time at the beach-stalls between La Gemma and the next resort.
On our last evening we watched the sun set from the Sunset Lounge, as dhows sailed past and fishermen rowed their ngalawas out to sea for night-fishing.
Sitting in the aircraft the following day the clouds swallowed up the last of the impossibly beautiful turquoise water and white sand rims surrounding the green islands. I made a promise: Kwaheri Zanzibar, tutaonana – goodbye, we’ll meet again. I haven’t seen enough of you yet. And until then, hakuna matata...